PVC Frame Deer Hunting Cross Bow Blind Plans
The crossbow blind built with these plans is designed for the ground hunter that wants to disappear into the woods. This blind is made so the hunter may rest the crossbow on a knee for deadly accurate shooting. The height of the blind is only 42" and it offers complete concealment. With a bit of brush and grass tossed in over the top, you are practically invisible! Furthermore, this blind is portable, weighs about 25 pounds (including portable seat), and takes less than a half hour to set up! And there is nothing quite like this blind on the market, so if you want this blind, you will have to build it.
In addition to this blind, I have developed plans for an inexpensive backrest-style hunting seat for hunting out of this blind.
Materials for Blind
- (2) 10-foot sections of 1" Schedule 40 PVC Pipe
- (1) 2-foot section of 1" Schedule 40 PVC Pipe
- (8) 45-degree 1" PVC Elbows
- (2) 1" PVC Tees
- (1) 1" PVC Coupling
- (2 or 4) 12-foot by 54" pieces of camo burlap
- PVC cement & primer
- 100 ft of parachute cord in dark green or camo
- (20) galvanized 2" finish nails
- (8) steel tent stakes
Note: If you want your blind to be a little higher, see the photo below that shows extensions on the frame. This will require (4) more couplings and (4) 10-12" pieces of PVC.
Step 1 - Cut PVC Lengths and Glue Pieces
In this step cut all pieces and also you glue some of the pieces together as shown below. Having elbows glued onto one pieces glued makes the portable blind much quicker to assemble and more stable.
Cut the PVC into (10) 2-ft sections. Also cut (4) 4-inch pieces. You can use a hack saw, a cutoff saw, or PVC cutter (I used the cutter).
To glue pieces, use PVC primer on both surfaces, apply PVC cement, insert pieces and give a little twist and hold them together. Glue (4) 45-degree elbows to (4) 2-ft pieces as shown below. Glue (1) coupling to (1) 2-ft piece as shown below. For the tees and angles, temporarily insert long pieces, as shown right, and use a carpenter's square to get a 90 degree angle. Mark the pieces with a sharpie marker (you can see the marks in the photos), and glue the pieces aligning the marks.
Step 2 - Assemble the Frame
Start by assembling the pvc pieces as shown on the right. You are not glueing these pieces (other than what was glued in the previous step) - the pieces lock together nicely. The pieces with elbows attached make up the legs. The one 2-ft piece with a coupling along with another 2-ft piece connect the two ends, and the remaining 2-ft pieces connect the elbows to the top ends as shown. Square everything up as good as possible and then place identifying marks with paint or markers at each joint. I used 5 different color sharpie markers. As you can see, I placed vertical and horizontal green marks on one side where the pieces connect. You need the ID marks so you can match pieces to the drilled hole positions.
After you get all the pieces connected, squared, and marked, drill 8 holes that pass through the elbows and 2 ft piece in the elbow. These holes should be just big enough for you to insert a galvanized finish nail. The nails on the corners serve three purposes: They keep the legs from turning, they give you fastening points for supporting parachute cord, and they give you anchor points for your burlap. Choose a drill bit just barely bigger than your nail - ideally the nail will not be too loose.
Form loops at each end of 4 pieces of parachute cord so that the cord stretches from nail to nail, as shown below.
Step 3 - Assemble the Camo Burlap and Place Over Frame
If you take two pieces of the camo burlap and sew them edge to edge as shown below, the resulting piece will be about 106" wide and 12-feet long and will perfectly cover your blind. Unfortunately, the camo burlap has become very thin so I found I had to double it up. Yes, deer can see through the thin burlap! If you are lucky enough to have some nice thick burlap you will not have to double it up. Also, if you can brush in enough, doubling up will not be needed. If you double up the burlap, stagger the pieces about 6" each direction to give you a little more coverage.
Place the burlap piece or pieces over the frame so the front just touches the ground as shown. The nails will hold the burlap in place nicely. Cut 4 more pieces of cord of about 4-5 ft in length and tie loops on each end. Place one loop over the corner nail and stake the other to the ground with a tent stake, as shown. You can use additional tent stakes to stake down edges as needed to keep them from blowing in wind.
Finally, cut an opening in the front for shooting. For this blind, I found that simply cutting a horizontal slit worked well. You will need a seat with a back for this blind. A stadium-type seat that sits on or near the ground would work or you can build your own seat using my plans here for hardly anything. You will also want some thing to carry your blind - I found that my old camping Duluth pack worked very well. A large duffle bag would also probably work.
UPDATE! If you want to be high enough to sit on a seat, you can add extensions to the frame, as shown below. This will require some additional camo material - one inexpensive 12' long piece will be enough to extend the sides down.
Shown below is the blind set up in an open field in the full sun at 20 yds. The photo on the right is after the blind is brushed in and the photo on the left is without brushing in. Photos taken at deer eye level.
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